Italy vacation
The most romantic country on earth? Italy, hands down. Birthplace of Romeo and Juliet, and playground of Casanova, this boot-shaped peninsula between the sparkling Adriatic and Mediterranean Seas has lured lovers to its lively cities, bella countryside, and seductive coasts for centuries. Travel along on one couple’s quest for the best food, wine, and lodging in two of the nation’s most enchanting locales. (Then write your own sequel.)
We were dying to visit Italy. Actually I was dying to visit, having never been. Robert, my Romeo, was eager to return. A full-blooded Italian born and raised in the States, he had made his first trip to Italy — as a young backpacker — decades ago.
The scenario: We had two weeks and two opinions on where to go. Robert loves art. I have a fondness for architecture. We both have a weakness for good food and wine, and looked forward to discovering Italy’s take on Italian cuisine. And yes, most important, we wanted someplace romantic — but not cloyingly so. Robert’s first choice: Venice. Mine: the Amalfi Coast. That decided, we set out to find the perfect, private (read: off the well-trodden path) retreat in each storied locale.
Venice: The City of Love
Don’t wish to be seen? Opt, as we did, for a suite in the discreet Palazzetto, a 15th-century building linked to the Cipriani through an ancient courtyard and flowered passageway. The Palazzetto and neighboring Palazzo Vendramin are the preferred pieds-d-terre for privacy-seeking movie stars and world leaders. I must confess, with a butler — the solicitous and ever-smiling Umberto — at our beck and call, we certainly felt like celebrities as we lounged in our lavish suite decorated in Rubelli and Fortuny fabrics, sipping the complimentary Nino Franco Prosecco di Valdobbiadene that greeted our arrival. Noting how much we had enjoyed this Italian sparking wine, Umberto appeared just before bedtime one evening, surprising us with a plate of amaretti cookies and two glasses of another Prosecco to try.
I could have spent our entire stay being waited on by handsome Umberto and gazing out at the never-ending parade of gondolas, vaporetti (water buses), and cruise ships that glided past our windows. But we had places to go and things to see. Top of our list: the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, an impressive museum of modern art housed in the late heiress’s palazzo on the Grand Canal. The great thing about Venice is you can get around easily by foot and vaporetto, and the Cipriani’s complimentary 24-hour boat shuttle makes it possible to zip back and forth between Giudecca Island and the “mainland” whenever you wish.
As it turned out, Robert wasn’t the only one enamored with Venice. This storybook city of palace-lined canals and labyrinthine alleys was breathtaking, though not short of tourists — which made us especially glad we had booked our stay at Hotel Cipriani. Located on the tip of Giudecca Island, this legendary hotel is just a five-minute boat ride from St. Mark’s Square, but a world away in the peace-and-quiet department. For half a century, the Cipriani’s stately lobby, decadent Fortuny Restaurant, and enormous outdoor saltwater pool have set the standard for chic — and remain the place to see and be seen.
The Art of Living Well
While we traveled to Venice in part to experience its vibrant art scene — we timed our visit to coincide with the Biennale, the international contemporary art festival held every odd year — we left plenty of time for il dolce far niente: “the sweetness of doing nothing.” We spent hours sitting in outdoor cafes, sharing plates of pasta, and sipping Veneto-region wine while drinking in the lively street-and-canal scene. Back at the Cipriani, we strolled the estate’s serene Casanova Garden named for Giacomo Casanova, the legendary lover who once held clandestine trysts on this very spot. Fellow lovers, take note: With the addition of the new garden-side Casanova Spa, those seeking their own romantic indulgence can book a couples massage in a sensuous treatment room equipped with Dolby Surround sound music. La dolce vita, si?
The Amalfi Coast: Honeymoon Haven of the Gods
Legend has it that ancient gods were married on the Amalfi Coast. I believe it. On one Monday afternoon alone, we spotted two wedding parties — one in the town of Amalfi, the other in Positano. For our romantic getaway, we settled on Ravello, a charming hill town perched high above the dramatic Amalfi Coast with drop-dead-gorgeous views of the sapphire-blue Mediterranean. Our chosen hideaway: Hotel Caruso, an 11th-century palazzo recently restored — to the tune of $30 million — to its former glory. Inside, we marveled at the meticulously restored ceiling frescoes and striking : otto tile floors. Outside, we admired the lush gardens i including the prolific herb garden, which figures prominently in Caruso cuisine) and the adjective-defying infinity pool.
But the best was yet to come: Our sprawling and tastefully decorated suite opened out onto a shaded terrace and, beyond that, a private garden with spellbinding views of the coastline. The outdoor setting was so spectacular — and so secluded — we couldn’t bear to close the curtains. We fell asleep to star-studded skies and awoke to the enchanting light that has inspired Amalfi Coast creative-types for centuries.
During the day, we took advantage of the hotel’s complimentary boat excursions and free shuttle service to Amalfi and Positano. We lunched by the infinity pool on Caprese salads, brick-oven pizzas (did you know pizza is considered an aphrodisiac?), and the Caruso’s signature Spaghetti Aglio, Olio, Colatura di Alici. We wandered through the village of Ravello, shopping for limoncello and stopping for cappuccino. On our last evening, we treated ourselves to sunset massages, donned our thick Frette robes, and retired to our suite for a romantic room-service supper. We uncorked a bottle of Prosecco, turned on Pavarotti’s “Torna A Surriento” (Come Back To Sorrento), and … I’ll let you finish the story.
We fell asleep to star-studded skies and awoke to the enchanting light that has inspired Amalfi Coast creative-types for centuries.
Tags: Amalf Coasti, Orient-Express Hotels, Positano, Ravello, Venice